05.20.2007 Port Douglas, Queensland

 

WOW! WOW! again.  That’s the brief description of our first two days in northern Queensland.

 

Our flight from Port Moresby on Friday got us into Cairns at about 8 PM.  For some unknown reason the person checking passports looked ours and motioned to a higher official, pointing to our passports.  He took them and told us to collect our luggage and he would return our passports in a few minutes.  I wasn’t at all concerned, since I knew everything was in order.  Maybe I had been put on a check list by Prime Minister Johnny Howard at the request of his buddy, George W. Bush.

 

The passports were returned and we went on through customs, where machines that look like the baggage x-ray machines are used to check luggage for animal or plant material, to prevent diseases and unwanted organisms from being brought into the country.  No worries here, either.  Wrong.  The machine detected a necklace made of dried seeds that Anne had bought at the Ayers Rock Resort.  We had to open the suitcase and find it and then convince the authorities that the seeds had in fact come from Australia in the first place, which of course they had.

 

By the time we were through with all that, we were the last people from our flight to emerge from the customs area.  Fortunately, our transfer driver was still there with his “McElvaine” sign.  The ride from Cairns to Port Douglas turned out to be much longer than I had anticipated—and turned is the operative word.  The Captain Cook Highway north of Cairns has a seemingly endless series of roundabouts.  We thought we might be caught in a Twilight Zone episode in which we would spend our lives going around traffic circles.  Then the road became one over curves around the edges of mountains, much like so many roads we have been on in New Zealand.  At least I wasn’t driving this time.

 

When we reached the Hibiscus Gardens Spa Resort, reception was closed, but they had left our room key.  We were delighted with the room, although we couldn’t see much of the rest of the place in the dark.

 

We had to get up very early Saturday morning to be picked up to go back down the Captain Cook Highway to Cairns for our cruise to the Great Barrier Reef, so we couldn’t have breakfast at the Hibiscus.  We later learned what a loss this was, because the breakfasts there are both superb and very reasonably priced.  The van picked up a couple from Germany at another hotel.  They were scheduled for the same cruise we were on.  The man spoke English very well and I spoke a very little bit of German with him.  The Frau apparently spoke no English and all day gave no indication of being at all freundlish, even when I said a few things to her auf Deutsch.

 

Seeing in daylight the Captain Cook Highway as it winds along mountains above the Coral Sea south of Port Douglas we quickly realized what a beautiful place this is.

 

Our boat for the trip to Michaelmas Cay and Reef, the Ocean Spirit II, was excellent, especially with only about 70 people aboard a vessel with a capacity of about 150.  I was wearing my Rutgers Alumni t-shirt and soon after we boarded a young man passed and said, “You guys had a great football season!”  It turned out that he is from New York, on the Bergen County, NJ, border.  He added, “and, of course, the girls basketball” after I mentioned what Don Imus had done to make Rutgers recognized around the world.

 

When the boat put down anchor off Michaelmas Cay, we moved with a small group onto a semi-submersible boat.  I think it was about like an iceberg: 9/10 underwater.  The underwater part has glass sides, and we got breathtaking views of the Reef—more varieties of coral than can be comprehended, colorful fish, sea turtles, etc.  It was dazzling.

 

The colors of the coral are not as vivid as photos lead you to expect, but the whole spectacle is amazing, with spaghetti coral waving in the water, and corals of every imaginable shape and color.  Of course we saw only a tiny part of the Great Barrier Reef, which is a mind-boggling 1400 miles long.  It is, of course, on the UNESCO World Heritage list.  It was the sixth of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World as listed by World Book Encyclopedia (there are several different lists of the Seven Natural Wonders) that I have seen (and the second of them in a week after our trip to Uluru).  It is to me clearly more impressive than the Arizona Meteor Crater, the Matterhorn, and Ayers Rock/Uluru and only rivaled by Victoria Falls and the Grand Canyon.  (Mt. Everest is the last one on this list that I have not seen.)  I guess my assessment of the best on the list is widely shared, because Vic Falls, the Grand Canyon, and the Great Barrier Reef are on all the variants of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World I have seen, while the other three are only on some of them.

 

On Sunday, we went to the Daintree Rainforest, just north of Port Douglas.  It is a national park and part of the Wet Tropics of Queensland World Heritage Area and is the oldest continually existing rainforest in the world—older, though much smaller, than the Amazon..  Our guide, Grant, was wonderful.  He could be a standup comic.  There were only five people on the tour, in addition to Grant.  Anne and I liked one of the others, Verity, from somewhere in Victoria north of Melbourne, very much.  The others were a couple from Western Australia who didn’t talk much.  They didn’t join in when we were bashing George W. and I suspect they are probably John Howard supporters.

 

We drove through Mossman, to the north of Port (as the locals call Port Douglas) and it was dead on a Sunday morning.  Grant pointed out the sign on the front of the hotel saying “What’s On” and “What’s Next” with nothing written under either.

 

Grant stopped by a field and asked us what we thought was growing on the plants.  Someone finally said “tea,” which was correct.  Grant then told us about a young American woman—from New York, he said, who guessed “milk.”  He said she wasn’t kidding.

 

We passed a dead feral pig along the side of the road.  It was on its side and stiff, rigor having set in.  Grant said he’d like to stop and stand it up to see how passersby would react.  He didn’t stop, though.

 

We spent more than an hour at a gorgeous beach just south of Cape Tribulation.  While the couple went kayaking, Grant, Verity, Anne, and I waded in the clear, shallow water.  Looking back at the almost completely deserted white sand beach with various shades of blue and green water in front of it and the rainforest with mangroves, palms, and other trees behind it whole tiny waves lapped at our feet gave us the feel of Paradise.  Then, as we were making our way back to shore, a sting ray darted towards us.  There always seems to be a serpent or something in Paradise . . . except in New Zealand.

 

After a dip in a cold stream and lunch under a cloth canopy beneath the rainforest’s tree canopy, we went for a walk through a portion of the rainforest where no one other than Grant’s tours goes.  We learned a great deal about rainforests, including the competition for sunlight that is only won by a few very tall trees, the competitive “strategies” of some of the plants, such as “stranglers,” which use another tree to climb to the sun at the top of the tree canopy and then gradually surround and strangle the other tree to take its place.  Two wild pigs were charging through the forest nearby, and we saw a Boyd’s forest dragon (lizard) on a tree.

 

On the way back to Grant’s vehicle, he showed us green tree ants and told us that Aborigines consider them a delicacy.  He talked us into licking the rear portion of one, which is supposed to taste sweet.  The last thing we expected to find ourselves doing was the licking the arse of an ant, but . . . you only live once.

 

We closed out the afternoon on a boat on the Daintree River.  It was a bit superfluous for us, since its main objective was to see crocodiles, and we had seen our fill (and much larger ones) on the Adelaide River near Kakadu.  However the trip turned out to be worthwhile because when someone suggested that crocodiles are lazy, the guide (not Grant; he was taking a break) said, “They’re not lazy; they’re efficient.”  That comment is bound to be useful the next time someone accuses me of being lazy!